Varanasi, the holy city, founded by Shiva according to legend, is considered one of the oldest inhabited cities in the world and also the one that hosts the pilgrims.

Located on the banks of the holiest river in the world, the Ganges, its old center is a maze of colorful and narrow streets. The Ghats, rock steps, plunge into the water from the top of the temples.

The sun rises, the reflections of the sun striking bright yellow ripples on the water. Religious believers plunge three consecutive times in the river to purify themselves. The first boats of fishermen turn on, others lie dormant under their makeshift blanket. The day begins, the atmosphere is slow.

At noon, a Sadhu illuminates a chillum in the shade of a tree. ‘Bom bom bolenat’, the sacred grass, frees the spirit of materialism and leads the forgoing contact with their inner being. On the steps, a child sells balloons and other plastic toys. Meanwhile, another sip a lassi and elders sit and contemplate life while the buffalo jump into the water.

At nightfall, the Puja and various prayers are preparing, the calm is replaced by mantras and other religious songs. Empty stairs are filled with faithful or curious onlookers, the poorest are setting up for their free meal offered by the temples and dogs wake up from their naps.

When calm returns, the lights went out on the banks, and only the burning pyres of bodies light up the sky. Here, the dead ashes are poured into the arms of Shiva and the soul goes directly to nirvana. The fire crackles, the stars twinkle, a new day ends with the sacred city.

‘Om Namah Shivaya’

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  Maquillage protecteur

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  Aghori Baba

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  Séchage du sari sur les bords du Gange. Drying saries on the gange's ghats.

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  Babu Somnath Chatterjee